Paris and its’ suburbs (banlieu) have always been a matchbox, and the hip-hop scene is the spark. The Western and Central Paris adored by tourists may as well be another country for banlieusards (people from the wrong side of Paris’ encircling Boulevarde Peripherique). Predominantly of sub-Saharan and North African heritage, predominantly poor, over-represented in prisons and treated with disdain by municipal government, they’ve a reason to be angry. This is afterall a country which just came scarily close to voting in a far-right government, and that has yet to come to terms with its colonial past.
Last spring tens of thousands of people hit the streets to protest reforms to labour laws; black-clad suburban youth fought running battles with police and picketed their schools and workplaces, armed with bluetooth speakers as well as stones and smokeflares. For protesters and anti-fascists, hip-hop music is a call to arms as well as entertainment, and the city has produced some great rage-inspired tunes; here's a quick guided tour:
Skalpel
No study on Parisian hip-hop would be complete without featuring artists from BBoyKonsian: a label/webzine/collective whose slogan is "No Justice: No Peace". Their most well-known member Skalpel has long been one of the staples of the scene and describes himself as "I'm not an artist; I'm a witness". Tracks frequently sample rhythm and blues as well as old school classic hip-hop. Alternatively you might hear piano loops or even metal riffs, plus collaborations from dozens of underground artists and producers. Whilst still essentially being a political text, Skalpel will never sound like a lecture. His records are at once a history of Parisian anti-fascism and a journey through the council estates and graffitied underpasses of the ends; but still reference struggles in Palestine, Mexico and Algeria. Skalpel sees rap as way more than just music, for him it's a weapon.
Pand'Or
Just because there aren't enough women on this list doesn't mean this is a boys scene; any open mic night will see plenty of girls at centre-stage but unfortunately most of them haven't produced albums. Pand'Or has though; her tracks denounce misogyny on the rap scene, on the street and online; "hiding behind your keyboard you think you're a man...go and puke up your jealousy" are some of the tamer lyrics from 'Kung Fu Pand'Or' put to a classic ska sample creating an effect that is as merry as it violent. Pand'Or follows Keny Arkana in a tradition of angry young women, with a frustration in her lyrics that shines through even if you don't understand French; mixing violence and philosophy. "You won't find the bitch cliché in my video...I've the wisdom of my mother and the wisdom of the earth...I'll bring the light for all the others" she rages in 'Hikari'. Her beats are a slower tempo and sometimes almost trip-hop-esque despite confessing a desire to cut of the heads of the residents of Paris' 6th (and wealthiest) arrondisement.
Scred Connexion
Walk into the right kind of party in Paris and shout 'Scred!' and it's certain a load of people you don't know will shout back 'Connexion!'. That's partly because these guys have been around for a long time, partly because they still put on regular amazing live shows in small venues for next to nothing, partly because they're sick. Skred are also elders of the thriving graffiti scene and their logo can be spotted all over the city. The style is as much classic and upbeat as it is activist and offensive. Lyrics criticise capitalism, police and the music industry, and their records are a great starting point for anyone interested in this scene. Check out 'Monnaie Monnaie', a classic underground track from the early 00's.
Ryaam
Sporting a censured t-shirt in her video 'La Cible' (The target) Ryaam is another member of BBoyKonsian who unfortunately hasn't yet produced a studio album. The tasters we hear from 'La Cible' and 'Gosses des Villes' should leave any rap-fan thirsty for more; taking traditional French accordion samples and combined with a staccato rap style. Gosses des Villes ('City Kids') is a description of Paris that will sound alien to any tourist, but familiar to anyone from her home district of Pantin; "Bobos [Bourgeoise Bohemians] invade the city centre...pushing the proletarians to the other side of the peripherique" referencing unchecked gentrification and violent evictions of the poor and other undesirables.
L1nconsolable
Using political slogans, quoting Guy Debord in your lyrics and putting on concerts at protests (complete with a mobile stage), oh and some parkour videos thrown in for good measure. That's pretty standard for L'1Consolable who has been a mainstay on the political rap agenda since 2012. Tracks such as '49.3' and 'Inconsolable' criticise parliamentary corruption and hypocrisy by sampling and re-editing politicians own sound-bites, a la CasetteBoy. This is best used in "Viennoiseries et Sournoiserie" a hilarious hip-hop analysis of Jean-François Copés claim that muslims have been snatching small boys' Pain au Chocolats from their hands because "we don't eat that during Ramadan". His live shows, frequently in squats to audiences who already know half the album by heart, has people shouting "On Vaut Mieux Que ça!" (We deserve better than that!) and the vibe is wholly DIY, with L1nconsolable even playing samples from his iphone.
Medine
The only mainstream artist on this list, and originally from Le Havre, Medine is featured here thanks to his 2017 single "Grand Paris", referencing the urban renovation and transport project which is transforming the suburbs, and not necessarily for the better. With a bridge that proclaims "The suburbs influence Paris: Paris influences the world" and "We piss you off all night, like the Nuit Debout guys...we're taking selfies with your speed cameras" Medine is speaking to and for the youth of the capital, when they're barely acknowledged by their own government. A practicing muslim of Kabyl heritage, Medines music deals with religious discrimination and racism with beautifully produced videos (check out "Nour" for example) and beats which can be heard from car soundsystems on both sides of the peripherique.
Première Ligne
This trio, featuring Skalpel as well as rappers E.One and Akye, are one of the most well known groups on the scene right now. "Rapping is like breathing...the struggle is the love" they proclaim on 'Forever', and you know they mean it. Their style follows in the tradition of sampling classic US tracks and featuring guest producers, artists and DJs so that the track list on their records read like a who's who of the underground hip-hop scene. Their live shows always feature a red and black banner in the background and are packed-out, with CDs, books and records included in the ticket price. They also frequently play for free to raise money for the anti-prisons movement. You might hear their music blasting out a sound system being pushed on a stolen shopping trolley during a protest, or in any alternative spot to the east of the city.