Photo: Simon Lee
There is an old adage, almost certainly coined by an old crusty who claimed to be there when you could get free milk and a shoe shine from David Bowie, that Glastonbury is a festival and all the pretenders are just glorified outdoor gigs.
Well if there's ever been an event to challenge this theory, it must be the wonderfully bizarre Festival No.6. Set in William Clough Ellis' North-Walian dreamland of Portmeirion, year upon year the organisers have thought up more ways to keep people entertained with feats of imagination offered both on and off-stage.
And with the weather largely behaving itself after a slightly drizzly Friday, there was a true carnival spirit at this year's event that gave proceedings a feel-good, end of term madness feel that would be difficult to match in any other location. But what shone among the myriad of artistic nonsensical and slightly more mainstream offered for our viewing pleasure this year?
1. Grace Jones
'It was so sunny when I was driving here I thought I could be in Jamaica... until I got out of the fucking car'. This is just one of the wonderful vignettes Jones littered her set with on Sunday night. Homespun charm isn't a phrase you would ever associate with the only woman to scare James Bond shitless.
But among the numerous costume changes, muscular but subservient pole dancers and looks that could kill, there are moments of real pathos watching Jones perform. And while the spectacular side of the show in itself would make it a clear standout, it's this intimacy that makes it truly unique.
The theme of the song 'Keeping Up With The Joneses', about being ostracised by her highly religious community in Jamaica, is an origin story that puts the performer's constant show of defiance and determination into sharp focus.
But the overall feeling of the show is one of joy. Joy at witnessing something so spectacular, life- affirming and just damn good fun that it sent everyone of feeling exactly how they should when imminently faced with reality once more.
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Photo: Simon Lee
2. Metronomy
On the face of it, Metronomy may not be the obvious choice to headline a festival. Their often gentle electronic pop is undoubtedly accomplished, composed and full of class, but can it provide a fitting crescendo to a whole day of diverse arts and culture?
Thankfully the answer turns out to be yes. By the time signature tune 'The Look' soared over the crowd, all questions of headline credentials were long-forgotten and Devon's finest had triumphed over the light but insistent rain to win over every part of the loving throng's body and mind.
Like Jones, they are the masters of bringing humanity to an art-form that isn't necessarily associated with it. In a more understated way, they won the day in the face of some who had questioned their right to headline in the first place.
Photo: Festival No.6
3. Years & Years
By the time Years & Years frontman Olly Alexander revealed on Friday evening that he was half- Welsh and had grown up in Monmouth, he didn't have to do anything further to win over the Welsh crowd - although it would have done his chances no harm. But what had already won everyone over were the hypnotic, almost African rhythms, the tender yet powerful vocals and an unfailing ear for a damn good tune.
Some see Years & Years, specifically Alexander, as a symptom of a society that favours those who come from privilege. But seeing them live gives you a flavour of just how prodigiously talented they are.
'Desire' is accompanied by some pretty serious sideways hip movement, the type that makes you wonder if your joints could possibly move that way, and all the energy on-stage is absorbed and given back three-fold by the delirious teen element of the crowd; along with pretty much everyone else.
Photo: Andrew Whitton / Fanatic
4. Steve Coogan
The spoken word is very well represented at Festival No 6. On Portmeirion's stunning central piazza there is an array diverse of experiences on offer. From a demonstration in Bar Jitsu, a bizarre Edwardian martial art that teaches you how to eject a 'troublesome gentleman' from your home, to swing lessons, a very wide range of tastes is catered for.
But by far the biggest draw of the weekend was Steve Coogan. He was charitably willing to speak about Partridge at length, and cheerfully discussed how he's learned to embrace the character's influence on his career instead of seeing it as an ostrich around his neck. But the discussions on his time portraying Tony Wilson in 24-Party People and his dalliances with the Labour Party were the most insightful.
He talked of Wilson with true affection, and an anecdote about Coogan, in full Wilson costume, meeting the man himself in a corridor was an absolute delight.
Photo: Andrew Whitton / Fanatic
5. Stornoway
Back into the musical oeuvre Stornoway came across as an almost custom-made fit for the festival's wooded surroundings. A band named after a remote Scottish town name-checked in the shipping forecast were always going to be at home in a far-flung but culturally significant corner of the UK.
And so it proved, with the soundscapes provided by the noise of several species of birds along with more traditional indie-folk methods, they seemed to both capture and enhance Sunday afternoon's mood perfectly.
6 Belle & Sebastian
Whereas Stornoway are relative newcomers to the indie-festival scene, Saturday headliners Belle & Sebastian have been at it for more years than they would probably care to remember. But there was no sign of festival fatigue when they took their rightful place on Stage No. 6 beneath a clear but somewhat chilly sky.
Most recent album Girls in Peacetime Want to Dance split opinion a little. But B&S have more than enough hits in their armoury to entertain a crowd for a lot longer than their allotted slot. 'The Boy with the Arab Strap' and 'Legal Man' formed a devastating one-two punch that showed more star quality than most bands would pay back whole advance for.
Photo: Festival No.6
7. Dream Themes
Moments of true beauty and profound meaning are all very well, but over the course of three days it's not unwelcome to see something that just makes you laugh your arse off. Dream Themes provided this is spades on the Saturday afternoon.
They played well-known TV themes songs immaculately, with favourites ranging from Grandstand to the Good Life. A quiz element kept things fresh; as did multiple costume changes. It was the perfect foil for the more serious elements of the festival and showcased the skilful balance the curators strike between music, arts and comedy.
8. The village processions
Perhaps more than any other festival with a strong indie music contingent, Festival No. 6 has a very strong carnival feel. And every night the Central Piazza's festivities were closed by a beautifully-lit procession up toward the main arena. As well as having the practical consequence of moving people away from the main arena, they also provided the perfect seque to the main performers of the night.
Outrageously dressed dancers, illuminated drum troupes, madcap brass bands and punters solemnly holding candles among the chaos were a great way to ease the transition from laid back piazza living to the more active sets in the main arena.
Photo: Festival No.6 Facebook
9. Band Pres Llareggub Brass Band
A band that straddled the beauty, and more farcical nature, of the acts on offer were Band Pres Llareggub. They brought their brass band version of Super Furry Animals songs, along with more traditional New Orleans-style standards, to the Clough Stage on Sunday.
The key the success of the set is that they played every diverse genre with affection and passion. As well as just being a brilliant brass band, the introduction on Welsh-speaking rappers and natty costumes brings something unexpected but superb to the whole musical table.
10. Howard Marks
Howard Marks' announcement in January that he was suffering from inoperable cancer was met with shock and sadness across all parts of the world of entertainment. But along with the sadness there was a huge outpouring of affection and respect. So it's no surprise that his appearance at Festival No. 6 was sometimes emotionally charged. But it's also remarkable how much of it had exactly the feel of any Howard Marks appearance before January. If there is one person on earth who can welcome tragedy and success in the same way it is surely Marks.
And the laconic style was the same, the stories were just as funny, the offbeat advise just as wise and unwise and the morals of the stories as unclear as ever. We need to cherish Marks for as long as the universe allows us to keep him.
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