Can we stay awake?
Martha Storey
16:54 26th July 2023

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Set in the much mythologised region of Transylvania, Electric Castle festival is a mainstay of the Romanian music scene. It is based around a castle, but that is where the similarities to Dracula end. Instead of Vampires or folk tales, Electric Castle is a booming and beautiful festival, boasting insta-worthy stages and an extensive, diverse line-up across its five days.

It also claims to be one of Europe's last 24 hour festivals. So, in the name of journalism, I’m tasked with staying up 24 hours to put this claim to the test. With live acts every hour of the day, I’m here to test out all that the festival has to offer, and give all you valued Gigwise readers the lowdown.

8:27am

I wake up. This is annoyingly early given my late night last night, but my tent is too light and too warm to get back to sleep. Stepping outside my tent, I’m met with grey skies and air that feels a lot like it’s about to rain. Uh oh.

Two separate people told me yesterday about Skrillex’s headline set in 2019, where it rained so badly that the audience were thigh-deep in mud. They both said the experience was amazing, but I’m not too keen for a repeat tonight.

As I’m heading to the loo, there are a surprising amount of people up and about, especially given that there has been music going on all night. I’m wondering how most of them will spend the morning, as there is only one act playing before 12.

9:54am

Feeling slightly fresher than when I woke up, I head to the festival grounds. I go straight to the onsite Lidl to get some brekkie.

Almost everything at the festival is Lidl branded, from the food markets, to the ferris wheel, to the tents and showers. The supermarket is great, dirt cheap with the biggest bakery section I’ve ever seen. 

As I’m sitting eating, I’m told that the Chemical Brothers have cancelled their set, as one of them has an ear infection. This is the third cancellation yet (after Peggy Gou and Rezz cancelled yesterday), and it’s a huge shame as I was really excited for their set tonight.

11:23am 

So far, I’ve mainly laid around chatting with some friends I’ve made, catching up on which artists we saw last night. The sun is finally out too, which makes it a lot more enjoyable.

This seems to be the done thing here, probably as most of the music happens from 9pm onwards. During the daytime, most people are sat chatting, or exploring the “brand experiences” on offer. There are a LOT of stalls sponsored by companies, where you can play games, make jewellery, or get your hair plaited. Every stall I’ve seen is sponsored, which I’m told is part of an effort to raise money for the restoration of the Banffy Castle, which is onsite. Proceedings from previous editions of Electric Castle have helped put a roof on the castle, and transform it internally. 

When we try to see what brand experiences we can, uh, experience, it sadly turns out none open till later on.

12:00pm

We decide to check out some of the music that’s starting up, so head to the Beach stage. This stage is picturesque, set in the middle of a wood which has been covered with sand. 

On the driftwood-covered stage are Esaunue & Xakis. They are playing chill techno, suiting the relaxed but dancey stage perfectly. And given that one of the duo (Esaunue? Xakis? Who knows) must be under 15, I am very impressed.

1:20pm

It is getting very warm, so I head to get some water and a snack. There are loads of fun places to chill here, and we opt for some spacious hammocks kindly provided by McDonalds.

Then, we head to see UFO play a DJ set of hip-hop and soul remixes. Sadly, the summer heat has zapped the life out of everyone; no one is up and dancing, despite that the music is upbeat and fun. 

2:40pm

We go to see a DJ from Bucharest called Cocco Mio back at the Beach stage. Her set is full of otherworldly percussion, interspersed with Indian singing. Everyone seems lost in the music, swaying gently or lost in their dancing.

3:15pm

I head to the castle to get some tacos from the stalls outside. After I’m finished, I have a mooch around inside the castle. It has been transformed into a marketplace for independent retailers - think Afflecks Palace, but less goth.

4:15pm

Then, I head to see Om La Luna, a Romanian band who make emotional stadium rock. Heartfelt and earnest, they’ve attracted a huge crowd, many of whom are singing along to every lyric.

I don’t stay too long though. Whilst the music is nice enough, the whimsical, soft-focus visuals of couples kissing and grinning got a bit much for me, making the music seem a lot more icky than it actually is.

5:00pm

The festival app notifies us that it is supposed to rain in ten minutes time. I’m currently sat chatting in the press tent, so decide to stay here for a bit and wait out the rain.

6:00pm

Rain over, we head to see local band Funkorporation, who mix funk with rock, rap, and traditional Balkan music. Whilst it isn’t exactly my thing, they do manage to have the crowd up and dancing by the end of their set, and are very impressive performers.

7:18pm

I head back to my tent to change into some warmer clothes and have a breather. Going from band to band all day has tired me out, especially in the 29 degree heat.

8:00pm

I meet up with my friends and we go to see singer-songwriter-instrumentalist Tash Sultana perform on the main stage. She is really good, and opens her set alone, layering up her tracks using a loop pedal before she starts to sing. It’s quite a feat to see her jump from one instrument to the other, rushing around the stage to get all the parts in on time. Later in the set her band join her, freeing Tash up to wander around the stage as she sings and plays the sax or guitar. The set is great, and has the crowd captivated.

After she finishes, I get a burrito for tea, along with a beer to see me through the next set.

9:40pm

I’m back at the main stage for 70s legend Iggy Pop. Before he starts singing his first song, he has stuck ones up at the audience and thrown off his leather waistcoat. Later, he chucks away his mic stand and instead shoves the mic down the front of his trousers as he struts around the stage. Mosh pits ensue. Iggy laps it up. It’s great.

10:50pm

After Iggy’s set, I’m at a slight loose end. I dip into a set by electro-pop artist IOVA whilst I figure out my next move. I end up enjoying the mix of gothic, dancey beats with poppy vocals.

11:30pm

I head to the festival’s biggest dance stage, the Booha stage, for Maribou State’s DJ set. The crowd is pretty lary, but Maribou State expertly transition their music to a more up-tempo, bigger sound to keep everyone happy.

00:20am

It’s time for someone I’m really excited about - Romy. Perched on the huge Hangar stage and surrounded by pink and blue Barbie-esque graphics, she delivers a joyous DJ set of pop and electronica. She mixes tracks of her own with those of other members of The xx and other pop bangers, and the mood in the tent is jubilant. Whilst it is clear that ‘Padam Padam’ has not reached Romania yet, it’s as well received as the more well-known tunes that Romy whips out in her set. 

In general, the crowds here are a lot friendlier, and less boisterous, than crowds in the UK, especially at the electronic stages. Everyone dances, everyone gives each other space, and the atmosphere is generally really good, and receptive to artists trying new things.

Whilst I’m getting tired at this point, I am spurred on by the euphoric set that Romy is delivering. This is definitely the highlight of my night - even though I’ve lost my friends, I’m having the best time.

1:55am

I emerge from Romy to find it has been raining, which is slightly concerning as I’m about to see Scottish DJ Barry Can’t Swim, which is on an outdoor stage.

Poncho on, I brave the rain, and it is definitely worth it. Barry is great, an expert in chopping up and arranging sounds from around the world so that they form the basis of his sound. It’s a nice change from the more percussive sets that I’ve seen so far at the festival.

The crowd feels a bit less friendly than the crowd for Romy, but that might just be a product of the uncomfy raincoats that everyone is wearing.

3:45am

I am starting to tire a bit. After Barry Can’t Swim, the stage is taken over by another Scottish DJ, Ewan McVicar. In comparison, his set feels slightly less interesting than Barry Can’t Swim, sounding a bit duller without the melodic backing to the music.

4:20am

This is where I pack it in. I’m danced out. I’ve been on my feet since 7pm, and have been alone since about 10pm. I’ve had a great night, but I’ve got no dancing left in me. I head back to the campsite.

Overall...

Electric Castle is clearly dedicated to providing music and entertainment around the clock. There isn’t a point at which the festival is quiet, where there is no music. There is loads of stuff I didn’t do today, like exploring some of the stages, or taking part in the brand experiences around the festival site. The music is 24 hours, meaning that there is always someone new to see or to discover.

That being said, there are moments where the festival feels a bit lacking. Especially during the daytime, I found myself wandering around a fair bit, or seeing bands I didn’t love because there was nothing else on. But I am not the target audience. It is great that so much time was dedicated to bands from the nearby city Cluj-Napoca, or from Romania more generally, even if it wasn’t music I was familiar with. Placing them during the daytime meant that I saw loads of local acts, as they didn’t clash with bigger headliners.

Whilst I’m sad I didn’t manage to see through the whole 24 hours, I did give it my best shot, packing my day with as many bands as possible. I had a great day (and night), seeing loads of different genres and styles of performing. I genuinely don’t know how people manage to see bands (and keep awake!) for the full 24 hours, but this festival is certainly the best place for it.

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